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Beware of flying lobster at local seafood gem

Joyce Liao, WG'08

Issue date: 11/20/06 Section: Insider
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Located amidst some swanky and hyped-up restaurants like Twenty Manning and Audrey Claire at the intersection of 20th and Manning Street, it is not surprising that many would consider Seafood Unlimited a hidden gem. Had I not heard about this restaurant from a friend before coming to Wharton, I probably would not have sought it out either.

My friend and I went on a Friday night after a brutal exam: lobsters sounded like a welcome treat to cheer up our battered spirits before the weekend. We were not disappointed. The restaurant features a full liquor and wine bar at the front, and a small dining room that seats about 20 people is in the back after one walks past the lobster tank (they looked better when cooked). The dining room was packed when we arrived. It seemed that many patrons there were local diners who have been coming to Seafood Unlimited for years - some of them greeted the waiters heartily as old friends and some (specifically an old couple next to my table) chuckled at novices like my friend and me when they saw us excitedly putting on our little plastic bibs (I know that it looks silly, but trust me, you will need it if you don't want lobster bits on your clothes…even if you are not eating lobster yourself, bits might fly over from other tables!)

Our meal started with an appetizing poached scallop and Asian pear salad with purple basil sauce. The set-up on the dish was so pretty that my friend and I almost did not want to disturb it - but then our hunger got the best of us and the dish was gone in 10 minutes. The scallop was tender yet not undercooked, and the sweet Asian pear not only added an interesting taste to the overall dish but also created a wonderful sensation on the tongue. For entrees, we ordered a 1.5 lb. lobster stuffed with crab cakes and the dinner special, seared wild sea bass with coconut-curry sauce, accompanied by sautéed bokchoy and pomme frites. The lobster was simply divine: it was steamed, shiny red, and cracked down the middle. The meat was solid but tender and very easy to pull out. Additionally, it tasted very fresh and flavorful without giving off a strong fishy taste. I barely used the melted butter to season it. The lobster came with a choice of two ample-portioned side orders. I chose steamed vegetables and jasmine rice, and both went very well with the lobster, but there was so much food that I did not end up finishing the side orders.

My friend's sea bass was delicious as well. I was not going to try it because I am not a big fan of coconut-curry sauce in general, but the chef did a great job with the dish. The sauce was light and helped to accentuate the freshness of the fish rather than overpowering it. The bokchoy and pomme frites made a great combination on the side, though my friend wished that the pomme frites were not shoestring style (we had had an exam and she just really wanted some greasy, thick fries). We wrapped up the wonderful meal with a deadly molten chocolate cake - I am still amazed that I found the room for it. What can I say -- it was love at first sight.

I highly recommend Seafood Unlimited if you are looking for a nice cozy space to relax and energize yourself. The intimate setting makes it a great place for a casual meal but also classy enough for a romantic dinner. The friendly service staff was impeccable. Owner Dave Einhorn, who has been in management since 1988, is there almost every night. Be sure to say hi to him when you stop by this neighborhood favorite!

Seafood Unlimited

270 South 20th Street

215-732-3663

Lunch:
Monday - Saturday, 11:30 am to 2:30 pm

Dinner:
Monday - Thursday, 5:00 pm to 9:30 pm

Friday and Saturday, 5:00 pm to 10:30 pm

Sunday, 5:00 pm to 9:00 pm

Cash and all major credit cards, reservation strongly recommended

Appetizers ~$10-15; entrees ~$20-30

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